Hakone spreads across the volcanic caldera of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, an hour from Tokyo yet a world apart. The town clusters into distinct areas: Gora with its modernist hotels and funicular railway, Sengokuhara's gallery-dotted plateau, and the shores of Lake Ashi where traditional ryokan have welcomed guests since the Edo period. Steam rises from natural vents, sulfur scents the mountain air, and the region's seventeen different hot spring sources each offer distinct mineral compositions prized for their therapeutic properties.
The dining landscape reflects this heritage of hospitality. Kaiseki restaurants along the old Tokaido road serve multi-course meals featuring local sansai mountain vegetables and Sagami Bay seafood. Gora's newer establishments pair Japanese craft with international technique, while teahouses scattered through the hills offer seasonal wagashi with views of Mount Fuji when the weather permits. Soba made from locally milled buckwheat remains a regional specialty, and several establishments have practiced the craft for generations.